Part 2: An Aussie Witch Abroad

Tim Ozpagan
May 26
6 min read

Adventures in Britain's Magical Landscape

Part Two, Glastonbury

Tim Ozpagan at the Chalice Well, Glastonbury.

My travel diary continues—not strictly in chronological order, but rather following the whims of the heart and magical inspiration. This time, I’m in Somerset, or should I say, Somerrrrset, where rolling your R’s feels like invoking an ancient enchantment all its own..and in particular Glastonbury.

Glastonbury was one place that I'd shared with my partner Bec Black, as absolute must visit—despite the short stay we packed a lot in.

Glastonbury, Somerset

The Covenstead

If anyone felt inclined to create a definitive "Witches’ Guide to Britain"—no small task—The Covenstead in Glastonbury would undeniably top the list of recommended accommodations.

If you, like me, are a collector of the unusual, antique, and vintage (‘hoarder’ is such an unkind word), The Covenstead will feel like a home away from home. This grand Georgian-era house on Magdalene Street, right in the heart of Glastonbury, brims with authentic witchy curiosities. Not the tacky kitsch kind, but genuine antiques steeped in story and history. And oh, the books! A copious library devoted to witchcraft and magick awaits exploration...if only I had more time just to sit and read.

Yet, what truly sets The Covenstead apart is its welcoming atmosphere and the genuine immersion in Witchcraft and the occult shared by its staff and guests. Originally the home of its creator, Adele Clough (also known as Adele Black, who saddly passed in 2020), the property retains a cozy, lived-in charm. A fellow Aussie, Emma, manages bookings with warmth and ease, while the charismatic owner, Tony, joyously announces breakfast will be served by candlelight. And what a breakfast—a generous, individually cooked feast where seconds are enthusiastically encouraged by the kitch staff—if only one could fit more in.

For a sense of its lavishly magical interiors, visit their Facebook page: The Covenstead and website: https://www.covenstead.co.uk/

Glastonbury Abbey

Just across the road from The Covenstead lies Glastonbury Abbey, steeped in colourful history, and was central to the fledgling 8th-century community, and was greatly expanded later in the 10th century. The Abbey was originally a massive structure, with the church itself being the second longest in Britain at the time— a total internal length of about 176m (580ft). It's thought that the main church stood at a height that was more than twice the height of the surviving stonework.

A major fire in 1184 caused significant damage, and much of the abbey, including the Old Church, were destroyed. Following the fire, the abbey was rebuilt, with the Lady Chapel being one of the first structures to be restored.

Having visited Glastonbury several times previously, I'd somehow always missed the Abbey—but not this visit! We were expertly guided around the extensive grounds by a historian garbed robes that would be fashionable in the 1100s. We explored the extensive ruins, now designated as an ancient monument with a historian who loves his work—he was so informative. The Abbey is most famously linked to the legendary burials of King Arthur and Queen Guinevere, thought to have been discovered in 1191. Also interred here are the relics of Saxon kings like St. Oswald and Balthild of Chelles, marking it as an important modern day pilgrimage site for history buffs.

The Chalice Well

I’ve saved one of the best sites to visit till last—the remarkable Chalice Well. Renowned for its reddish-brown, iron-rich waters and connection to the Holy Grail legend, the Chalice Well Gardens near Glastonbury Tor offer a profound, peaceful experience. Words scarcely capture the sacred tranquility that permeates this ancient site. We lingered longer than planned, immersed in a timeless realm where the sacred felt tangible.

We arrived toward toward the end of the day, so it was very calm and no crowds. At the garden’s heart is the ornate Chalice Well, from which a natural spring flows continuously. The waters are fed from a deep aquifer that has distinct reddish stain in the waters (due to high iron content) these all flow to a little waterfall and pool below the Well’s opening. It’s here where you can collect samples of this holy water to keep—I still have mine from a previous pilgrimage. Legend has it that the Grail was hidden within the Chalice Well, and this charges its power and colour.

Wandering the meandering paths, we discovered a fallen tree in full blossom. Then Bec noticed, the tree was not connected to it’s roots; it had broken off at the base, and yet it was clearly not just alive but thriving. That was when I realised we were in a beautiful healing energy garden. The peace you feel opens you to a deep calm, where all the worries you carry are cleared and simply flow out of you. I would think if you were at all emotionally sensitive, tears would easily flow just like the spring waters of this truly holy place. I really want to return to this beautiful healing garden.

The Hollow Hills and Courtyard Bookshops, on the High Street.

So Many Bookshops

And Places for Witches to Hang out

A shared passion for Bec and I have is our eternal search for hidden wisdom in bookshops, making Glastonbury's many aestablishments an essential stop on our relentless quest. There are many more than I mention below but these are a good starting point for your planed visit.

Courtyard Books, a jewel in Glastonbury’s esoteric crown, resides prominently on the High Street. It’s an indispensable resource for anyone in pursuit of rare and obscure occult titles and thoughfully curated with many local U.K. authors and the who's-who of the occult publishing world. They stock books from: Three Hands Press, Primal Craft, Scarlet Imprint, Troy Books, Ixaxaar, Anathema, Therion, Fall of Man, Aeon Sophia, Starfire, Nephilim, Sirius Esoterica, Hadean, Atramentous Press, Black Letter Press, Ouroboros, Xoanon and many others. You'll find a lot more in-person at Courtyard Books, 2–4 High Street, Glastonbury, Somerset, BA6 9DU.

Also noteworthy is The Hollow Hills (formerly “The Speaking Tree Bookshop”), which operates as an artists’ residency continuing the handmade bookmaking legacy of Peter Fraser, founder of Loon Press. This enriching space offers artists and bibliophiles access to a fully equipped letterpress studio and a beautifully curated research library—a resource Sydney desperately needs! Visit The Hollow Hills at 5 High Street, Glastonbury, BA6 9DP.

The Goddess and the Green Man, trading for over three decades, is an iconic Glastonbury shop featuring Pagan Goddesses and Green Man ornaments and pagan lifestyle objects. The ethos of the shop is approached from a broad pagan path and personal practices. They work consciously with the Wheel of the Year, which helps to shape the ebb and flow of stock ranges and displays. The owner Tyna said, "What we sell really matters to us." Many of the items are handcrafted in the UK. Tyna is supported by a loyal staff: Debs, Morticia, Audrey and Kevin. Explore their offerings at The Goddess and the Green Man, 17 High Street, Glastonbury, BA6 9DP.

It was from the Goodess and the Green Man, that picked up a copy of “Witches Magazine”. This is a beautifully designed magazine and in a climate where physical pagan magazines and newsletters are now rare, it was a pleasant surprise to see such a well produced publication. The content on the ‘cosy’ side of the pagan and witchcraft topics, but its beautiful art and photography made it a must have for me. I picked up their Spring 2025 issue. https://www.witchesmagazine.com/

Not so much a bookshop, Star Child Glastonbury, is an apothecary with high-quality botanicals of incense, candles and perfumes and a range of stylish ceramics. The products are obtained from both organic and sustainable growers and blended there right on the premises.

Blending is something they take very seriously and they ”…work with the cycles of the Moon to collect materials for [their] magical lunar infusions which [are] then added to all of [their] magical blends…” Star Child is stylish, dark, and utterly magical, their shop is irresistible. Discover them at Star Child, 7 High Street, Glastonbury, BA6 9DP.

Lastly, who could resist Glastonbury’s Oxfam? Bec is a skilled hunter of vintage fashion and spotted a sleek black ritual robe, perfectly suited for her warlock's next ritual—proof that magick sometimes awaits in unexpected corners. Check out Glastonbury Oxfam at 18 Market Place, BA6 9HL.

Carla on Gaunlet Arcade, just off the High Street.

Hidden Gems in The Gauntlet Arcade

If you are loving Glastonbury as much as we do, check out and follow Normal For Glastonbury Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/NormalForGlastonbury

A real gem is The Gauntlet Arcade in Glastonbury. There a series of small business in this tucked away lane of calm. Here you'll find cafes, gift shops, healers and Tarot readers. A new shop is Carla-Leonna Aurora—Carla opened up her own business doing healings and readings.